Day 22

This is the synagogue in Capernaum where Christians remember Jesus teaching. | Photos by Anthony Lezcano

This is where we had Mass by the Sea of Galilee. So beautiful!

It is in this church in Capernaum that Christians remember the multiplication of the loaves and fishes.

A calm ride on the Sea of Galilee.
Dear Friends,
We began with breakfast, sorting our tables out among the tables of the Germans (“Guten morgen!” with a smile) the other seminary students (from across the States) and the Italians (with their priest who cries in Italian, “I don’t speak English! God bless the seminarians!”). Along with the usual breakfast fare of olives and a few different kinds of cheese were the extra attractions of a lurid purple gelatin and jars of chocolate.
After this nourishing meal, we boarded the bus in the morning heat and drove to Capernaum. Johnny gave us a good introduction to the site and we were able to have Mass near the water. This was particularly good for the seminarians because they: 1.) Could see the sea, the setting for the Mass’s Gospel; 2.) They were in the shade and could enjoy seeing me squint and sweat.
The Gospel was about Jesus telling Peter and the other disciples go out again for another catch of fish. It was a beautiful Mass and we then had a chance to pray more on the shore, or in the church, which marks the house of Peter, or the synagogue where Jesus healed the man in Luke 4. Over the wall is the pretty little Orthodox church of St. Mathew, which marks the site of the customs post where Mathew worked. I’m hoping we can go there tomorrow to see the church and the beautiful icons. According to our guide, this will happen if 1.) The Palestinian man who works there meets us — he will let Catholics in; 2.) We don’t ask the priest first; he’s not big on Catholics.
After Mass, we drove to the Church of the Multiplication of the Loaves and Fishes. While the church at Capernaum uses the latest in modern technology and style, the new Church of the Multiplication was built around the same time in the style of a Byzantine church of the sixth century.
After our stop there to confirm Mass for tomorrow, we began our ascent up the valley past the now drained Lake Hula, through Qiryat Shemona (today was the day to test the bomb shelter system throughout the country) in the shadows of Mount Hermon to Caesarea Phillippi, where St. Peter confessed that Jesus is the Christ, the Son of the Living God. And, this is where Jesus told him that he was the Rock on which the Church would be built and that the gates of hell would not prevail against the Church. A great spot, with clear springs that are part of the system that leads to the Jordan River.
We drove up past the Druze village, past Nimrod’s castle, from which the first assassins ventured forth, past apple and cherry orchards, to the outlook that shows the current Syrian fields and the way to Damascus.
We came to Magdala (home of Mary Magdalene) and had some good Peter fish for lunch. Johnny said it’s like tilapia. I think this was a bit generous. Not a bad fish, but nothing next to Great Lakes perch. Or whitefish. Or pickerel …
Stuffed once more, we dragged ourselves to the bus and drove to Ginnosour where we met our boat. Binh said it reminded him of the boat on which he left Vietnam many years ago. Clad in wood, it sailed out onto the waters into the northern part of the Sea of Galilee. We read the passages about Jesus walking on the water and calming the sea. We then had some time for quiet prayer. The captain decided what we really needed was some American gospel music, including Elvis Presley singing “Amazing Grace.” I gritted my teeth when it started because I’d asked that we be spared this stuff, but I found it moving, despite myself.
We are now back at the guesthouse, thanking God for air conditioning that works and preparing for Evening Prayer.
Praying for you and your intentions,
– Father Trapp and the Sacred Heart pilgrims